Restaurant review: World’s End Market Restaurant

There’s something quite peaceful about the western end of Kings Road, as it begins to nudge Fulham. The sterile chains start to dwindle, giving way to a much more relaxed atmosphere and a wave of family-friendly affairs. The perfect spot then, for World’s End Market Restaurant. Opened in December 2014, the restaurant is housed in the old World’s End pub, a former distillery and originally a tavern in the era of Charles II, which has undergone a thorough but respectful renovation to bring it to its current state. Now, an impressive market-style fish display and a walk-in meat fridge mingle with high ceilings, industrial lighting, leather upholstery and checkerboard tiled flooring, evoking an aesthetic akin to a 1930s canteen. The restaurant offers the very simple concept of market fresh dining, with the menu focused on seafood and meat brought in from sister restaurant The Crystal Palace Market, whose in-house butcher and fishmonger provides much of the seasonal, British-sourced produce. It’s all very laid-back, and the stripped back interior married with a breezy ambience makes World’s End and easy choice for intimate gatherings just as much as family meals.

Who’s eating: Friends and family. On our visit, we spotted at least three families chowing down on a menu that meets sophisticated adult tastes as well as easily appeasing children’s palates. Other tables were occupied by groups of young people who look like they could have just stepped out of a scene of Made in Chelsea (perhaps they did).

Eating: World’s End does three things and does them well: steak, seafood and burgers. We started with lemon-cured tuna with a ginger, jalapeno and coriander dressing, alongside a seafood soup served with olive bread. Both set a promising tone: the soup was surprisingly filled to the brim with shellfish and fish — a pleasing alternative to the watery version of the dish usually trotted out — while the tuna was piquant and fresh; it’s accompanying dressing giving the dish a zing. Despite the rather succinct concept, World’s End’s main course offerings are surprisingly endless. The menu spans everything from whole wild Anglesey sea bass, to British T bone steaks, topped with a list of around ten burgers. Our choice, the blue cheese burger, was a deliciously sloppy affair, dripping with Guilford beef, caramelized onions, shallot, tomato and home-made mayo. They don’t scrimp on portion sizes here either — each main is served with fries and a house salad. Our second main, a chunky, whole Canadian lobster, was cooked in the modish josper oven (a hybrid oven and a grill), served with a boat of gravy and was faultless. The meal was finished with a chocolate fondant, filled with oozy, molten chocolate goodness.

Drinking: The space is centred around an imposing bar, where a litany of both classic and signature cocktails are mastered by skilled mixologists. The Market Twinkle — Absolut Vodka with elderflower topped with Prosecco — makes a satisfying aperitif, while we imagine the Johnnie Quince — quince jelly with fresh lime juice, Johnnie Walker Black Label and apple juice — is tipple that will be a hit come summer. A basement level cocktail bar and lounge, open Thursday to Saturday, offers a wider range of concoctions, while there are plans to expand into the second floor of the property later this year.

Liked: The versatility: first dates, celebrations, Sunday lunch, World’s End is suitable for all occasions. The interiors also make a nice change from the uber-slick or super-chintzy extremes usually found in this part of town.

Didn’t like: Lack of doggy bags. With such hefty portions, the restaurant needs to be better prepared for takeaway requests! But it’s not the end of the world.

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